Tapas, Tapas, Tapas!

Tapas, finger foods, canapés, hors d’ourves or whatever you may call these days are resurfacing as main attractions in bars and restaurants. For me, it’s the perfect party food. It allows guests to mix and mingle and at same time have some hefty food.

From Catalan pan con tomate to Galician Pimientos de Padron, people are serious about food and tapas are definitely one of their greatest gastronomic contributions to the gourmet world. Spaniards unwind after work and go to bars to discuss current events with friends, then argue, joke around and have tapas with wine or sangria.

Tapas has been around since the Middle Ages, it was said that a Spanish king’s need to take small bites due to his illness resulted to the birth of these snack foods, which of course is to fill the stomach before a sip of wine. In the early days of tapas, (tapa, Spanish for lid or cover) a slice of cheese or ham was given to match a drink and placed over it as a lid. There is some dispute over why exactly this was done: to keep out the flies or hide the smell of the bad wine?

Recently, a good friend came back from her vacation in Barcelona and gathered a few friends for a “tapas treat”. Adhering to Spanish customs, we started at 8:30 pm, which is actually the best time to start a party to beat Bangkok’s evening traffic. The menu included: jamon (Spanish ham so thinly sliced, it was like peeling your own skin); chorizo (deep red pork and paprika sausage); rolled herring; croquettes; tortilla; manchego cheese; olives; dry nuts; and crusty bread topped with rich tomato sauce. I dare not call it appetizers!

After the filling portions of delicious tapas, we were all ready for some powerful potions. Originally that was the whole point of eating small portions was to accompany and buffer the alcoholic drinks. Widely popular in Spain, mojito was the choice cocktail of the evening. My friend says she makes the meanest mojito and I was in for a surprise. Sipping the drink in the balcony, I knew her claim was so true. I swear the buildings were swaying! Interestingly, mojito’s humble beginning is traced back to Cuba where pirates brought the “medicinal drink” to the island, first called El Draque after Sir Francis Drake. Later it evolved from the word origin ‘mojo”, traced to Spanish (name of a Cuban seasoning) and African (meaning hexed); since both inhabited the island. Wherever its birthplace or origin is, it certainly can grace my party anytime, adding an exotic Caribbean flair.

Mir’s Fierce Mojito
5-10 fresh mint leaves
1 heaping spoonful of crystallized sugar Light rum, Cuban if possible
Juice of 1 lime or the local manaw
Club soda
Crashed Ice

Mash with a pestle the mint in a glass with the pieces of lime and crystallized sugar (coarse sugar is vital in the mixing process, as it helps the flavors come out). Using special mojito pestles is a nice touch (the wooden foot massage sticks can do the trick, a brand new one, please!), but the butt end of a wooden spoon is what my friend Mir used and so did Sir Francis Drake, who first concocted it. Fill the glass with crashed ice, don’t skimp! Add rum and club soda. Stir. Hey don’t go easy on the rum; some say the name ‘mojito’ originated from the African word ‘mojo’ meaning to cast a spell so this just might be the perfect way to light up on your friends’ mood at your coming party.

Tortilla de Patatas
Olive oil
4 large potatoes (peel and cut into small pieces)
salt to taste
one large onion, thinly sliced
6 large eggs

Beat eggs in a large bowl with a fork, add salt to taste, set aside; heat potatoes in a pan with olive oil until brown but soft, adding onions. Add potatoes to beaten eggs, making sure that eggs cover them completely. Heat oil in large skillet and add potato-egg mixture, spreading quickly. Shake pan to prevent sticking and flip three or four times using a plate to catch it, each time adding some oil, serves 4-6 persons.

Croquetas ala Nuria
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for deep-frying
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk 1 onion chopped
250 g cooked chicken, finely chopped 250 g cooked pork meat, finely chopped
Salt
2 eggs
1 cup fine dried bread crumbs

In a saucepan, heat olive oil and the butter over medium heat, when melted, add the flour and whisk using a wooden spoon; mix well until the flour is well blended. Add some milk and increase the heat. Bring to a boil and add the remaining cup of milk. Cook until the mixture begins to thicken. Meanwhile blend onion, chicken and pork meat, season lightly with salt, then stir and add to the white sauce. Cook a few minutes in low fire then pour into an oiled dish. Cool it down for a bit and then cover. refrigerate for at least 2 hours, but preferably overnight to allow the mixture to set.
Beat an egg lightly, meanwhile spread the bread crumbs on a plate. With 2 spoons, shape the croquette mixture. Roll each croquette in the bread crumbs, shaking off any excess crumbs, and then dip into the beaten egg. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before deep frying.


Hungry for more, two days later I searched for another tapas experience. I strolled to the Glass Bar (Plaza Athenee, 61 Wireless Road, Tel: 02 6508628) to have some tapas. A world apart from the tapas I expected, it was a Thai version of artful pieces of canapés. Always at creative work, like elves in a workshop, the chefs of Bangkok are constantly trying to push the envelope a bit farther.

Called “Afterwork Cocktails + Cones”, the impressive presentation was worth the try; edible mini cones filled with savories are wedged in shot glasses filled with rice. A tray of ten selections (650B) can accompany a nice cocktail (one among the new bartender blends) of a “Sultan Side Car” - Grand Marnier and French brandy shaken with lemon juice, cinnamon and sultanas.

Heading home after catching up with some friends over tapeo (art of eating tapas) ritual, I vow that the next time I gather my friends for a party it will be a table of tapas - and why not? I just can’t get enough of it. The tapeo would be no doubt the best party food formula. The art of nibbling with Spanish elegance has the ability to bring people together. After all, tapas embody the warmth and openness of the social Spanish way of life. There is something uplifting with sharing a nice bottle of Rioja and a chat with cool friends and some delectable tiny nibbles to highlight the day. Buen apetito!

Class Act

Once again I dip my fingers in a chef’s pot. It is great to see the evolution of food; raw ingredients turning into tasty dishes; pure amateurs crafting meals once reserved to fancy chefs; and experiencing the joys of being part of the creative process of preparing a meal.

Chef extra ordenaire, Marco Cammarata, once again opens his kitchen to patrons who want to bring home some gastronomic expertise in their own kitchens. His witty and affectionate manners make cooking look fun and easy; he can join the ranks of the likes of Jamie Oliver and Mario Batali. So better grab the chance to get entertained by him before he gets discovered by the food channel!

Cooking, to me, is more stimulating than tiring. Knowing how to appreciate food, it is easy to assume that kitchen work is painless. Actually, coming up with the idea is far more fetching than preparing a good meal. This is what cooking classes do- inspire, motivate and build confidence.

As if chefs are not content with delivering skillfully plated inventive dishes to their guests, they want to add another feather to their caps by mentoring proletarian epicureans. “It’s far more effortless to cook something at home than walk to a fast food place, order food and bring it home. A delicious pasta sauce can be prepared in a “shower time” and be enjoyed better knowing it was prepared by your own hands”, says Marco.

The four of us arrived shortly before 11am, the ice breaker was a short conversation over a cup of cappuccino, followed by snipping and goggling some herbs and spices before the main event (4 course menu) that started promptly at 11am.

Pasta with one-note accompaniments, such as EVOO (extra virgin olive oil), mushrooms, pungent cheeses and rich red tomatoes was one of our target dishes. One thing that sets Marco’s cooking class aside from the many around town is that he customizes the menu and number of students according to demand.

Garbed with a chef’s double-breasted white uniform, we all took part in the entire process of slicing, chopping and brewing, and had a chance to get inside information from the master of the kitchen, absorbing invaluable tips worth coming to class for. I love that we made food that are easily made at home: risotto; ragout; pasta with pesto and putanesca sauce. No fancy pan-seared Wagyu beef encrusted in pancetta and truffles, just simple but appetizing dishes.

Marco had a few key tips that I made sure to absorb, such as: reducing and turning up the heat at the appropriate time is key to cooking- lots of heat will roast the onions and garlic, while reduced heat melts it for easy blending. It is essential to cook pasta with lots of water so the noodles have enough room and don’t stick together (2 liters/100g of pasta), then there’s no need to add oil.

Making vegetable stock as a base to a dish or sauce is easy. The holy trinity of onion-carrot-celery is the basic ingredients. “Simmer, interfere (meaning reducing heat and adding some herbs and spices) and shrink the mixture”, as Marco always says. The secret to a good ragout is mincing herbs in the same texture as the minced meat, so it has the same consistency. When herbs and spices come into play in a dish, there’s almost no need to add salt. And for those who are inept in chopping finely, use a whisk to stir. Finally, a splash of wine at the end will refresh the dish.

Close to 1pm, we were starving to eat what we had been making and smelling. For me, the anticipation seemed more heightened by having finally become an insider in Belguardo’s professional open kitchen.

Cooking can bring you instant rewards, and you can astonish yourself with healthy home cooked meals that you normally have to get from fancy restaurants. Even if you aren't inclined to cook, remember it isn’t rocket science, just have fun. It’ll be nice to organize a class with some friends and then enjoy the meal after. That’s one special party!

Like life, in cooking practice makes prefect. Seeing the complexity of dishes will make you appreciate a good chef and good food better. Once in a while, it is also good to take the driver’s seat and whip up a dish in between the pampering we get from chefs. I think the essential rationale of a cooking class is to see the fruition of food from simple concepts and fresh ingredients into meals that have that wow factor – see how the magic happens and be part of it.

Belguardo
Italian Restaurant & Wine Lounge
Cuisine by Marco Cammarata
Cooking class (including lunch): 1,500B per person

Unit 515 Ground Floor,Siam Paragon Centre; Tel +66 (0) 2-610-9380

La Dolce Vita ala Rosanno

Foodies of Bangkok are insatiable. There will always be room for new restaurants and new ventures. When it comes to satisfying the palate, the city becomes an open stage for chefs from all over the globe.

It doesn’t mean that opening new restaurants have to be bordering on uncharted realms of exotic cuisines to tickle our taste buds. It can be the old tastes that give us the sense of home and traditions that transport us to rural settings of labored dishes par excellence.

Rosanno just does that; a well-received addition to the hordes of ristorante around town (167 Sukhumvit Road 21, Tel: 02 260 1861). The old and new crowd of foodies welcomes the rich traditions of Italian cuisines with its rustic ambience and familiar dishes. A quaint single-detached house with a terrace, conventional furniture and well-trained staff who greets guests with a smile and a “buongiorno” with a crisp accent is an invigorating scene in this hi-tech world.

Chatty and ever so hospitable, Rosanno tells tales of Bangkok 25 years ago when pizzas were as alien as cell phones were to Bangkokians then. His devotion to his kitchen endeared him to the hearts of the locals, and soon his pizzeria evolved into a lovely sought-after ristorante. Last year he retired but soon after he missed the bubbly life of a restaurateur and stepped right back into the limelight.

The kitchen is now under the watchful eye of Chef Achille from Sardinia, while Rosanno chats with guests and looks after the needs of his hungry patrons. Ensuring the authenticity of flavors, a refrigerated display counter is filled with meats and delicacies from Italy. Guests can request nice plate of warm and cold house appetizers from the fresh selection.

The volcanic stone grill highlights the kitchen, for a good old-fashioned smoky flavor. Fans of grilled food can feast on Australian Angus tenderloin dashed with peppercorn and mushroom sauce (680B); or an old favorite of juicy country style whole chicken grilled to perfection (420B).

Pastas are house dishes especially good on days we don’t want to complicate the mind with choices – fruitti di mare, al funghi, carbonara or homemade spinach lasagna filled with veal ragout (300B/dish). For me, I always have a contented longing for a steaming serving of risotto; like one laced with saffron and garnished with Italian sausages (360B). On my meatless days a simple vegetarian serving of risotto al funghi, filled with the earthy taste of mushrooms, could definitely gratify my craving (380B).

A sweet deal of a short list of lunch special of 8 antipasto, 13 main courses and 2 desserts (320B/ 2-course; 390/3-course) is available Mondays to Saturday; including an aroma-rich coffee at the end of the meal. Some dishes are special for lunch only, like my personal favorite of fried mozzarella garnished with greens and ravioli spinaci pomodoro. I only have to refrain from stuffing myself with the generous serving of thin rosemary sprinkled pizza bread – they are just delicioso!

A typical Sunday dish of a rich comforting stew steadily simmering for hours can leave anyone salivating in anticipation. Stinco di Vitello is a hearty chunk of braised veal oozing with the essence of rural flavors (520B). True to the undying tradition of seasonal flavors, a chalk board of specialties is constantly changing.

The wine selection can please anyone’s fancy. A glass of fine house wine, to wash down an easy meal, is poured just in the right amount (180B). While the large wine list can suit any occasion diners are in the mood for. Three enclosed rooms easily could seat a group of up to 12 persons, for private parties.

To enjoy a real Italian meal, you have to leave space for dolce. Italian gelato consists of six homemade flavors (120B/scoop): nutella, lemon, hazelnut, vanilla, coconut and chocolate. Millefoglie, alternating layers of thin pastry and mascarpone cream with strawberry sauce and ice cream, is a dreamy end to the meal (180B). Tiramisu, literally meaning pick-me-up, can definitely perk you up after a meal; with its fresh traditional taste of cake infused with coffee laced with rum, layered with oozing cheese filling, topped with rich powdered chocolate (180B). Are you now in a suspended drool?

So forget the minimalist theme, chill out music and über sleek setting, Rosanno’s is your good old Italian place. It is still Bocelli in the background, art and love in each serving of a dish and a short teleport to a charming little village in Italy where the atmosphere is like home. Love it!

Choco Loco

“All you really need is love, but a little chocolate now and then won’t hurt!” (Lucy Van Pelt in Peanuts by Charles M. Schulz)

A gift is not just a gift. Too little and too generic equals a thoughtless act. An extravagant and very expensive gift can not only seem an over the top inducement but a warranty for favors.

All year long, we are faced with a dilemma on what gifts to give- birthdays, thank-you-presents, get wells, hostess gifts, holidays and most of all Valentine’s Day. Do we give only our “significant someone” or everyone we love? After all, it is the day of hearts- L.O.V.E!

That’s where chocolates come in. Give me one person who despises chocolates and I’ll give you a hundred chocoholics. From time immemorial, chocolates have been lifting our spirits, stimulating our senses and exciting our passion. And now, recent studies have even suggested that cocoa or dark chocolate contain helpful ingredients good for our health; setting off the "Chocolate diet", that highlights 2 ounces of dark chocolate per day (100 calories). That’s a diet I would love to undertake!

If that is not tempting at all to rush to the store and get this precious pieces of heaven, why not experiment it on your significant someone. Hand your lover a box of fine chocolates, light a candle, put on some soft samba music, start the chocolate tasting and see where the mood takes you! It may be the best experiment you have ever endeavored.

“The best way to degust a piece of chocolate is to put it in your tongue, close your eyes and let it slowly melt in your mouth”. Chocolate expert Stephane Dabazach of Gallothai’s Duc de Praslin is passionate about chocolates. Chocolates, he further adds, “… is a sensual experience involving sight, touch, sound, smell and taste. The evenness of the deep dark brown color, the snap as you break it, the delicate aromas accompanied by the sycophantic melting in the mouth arouses the taste buds, as the sweetness and bitterness explodes into a silky consistency that brings the pleasure”.

Duc de Praslin may well be the best place for chocolates in town with some 30 varieties of pralines (16-18B/piece) in many shapes and sizes apt for all occasions and festivities; including chocolate coated fruits and nuts. Evidently the only manufacturer of fine chocolates in Thailand with 9 outlets in Bangkok, Phuket and Chiangmai, they have paved the way in opening the palates of local gourmands to the joys of chocolates.

The best place to hang out and taste the rich cocoa drink to wash down a praline or two is at Duc de Praslin Café House at Fenix Tower (Sukhumvit Soi 31, Tel: 02 2583200). The powder blue façade stands out, so it is hard to miss it. Inside are comfy seats to enjoy a set of: fine cocoa drink, a croissant, a glass of orange juice and a praline (95B); for a midday boost or a treat after work (open 7:30am- 9:00pm). The stock is plenty for a quick stop for some presents, like when you are late for a date or did something thoughtless (right?); or even nice truffles for you to cuddle with by the sofa to end the day- why not?

Chocolates, like wine, has some intricacies to ensure its utmost enjoyment: store chocolates in the refrigerator in the middle section, too cold will make the cocoa butter rise to the surface; eat chocolates at room temperature to ensure the maximum sensation of its taste; only indulge in the best chocolates you can get your hands on, for the real pleasure of it; and eat chocolates moderately, dark chocolates for health benefits and a creamy praline as a rewarding treat.

It makes me wonder what magic these balls of cacao really have. Casanova referred to chocolate as the "elixir of love” and is said to have enjoyed a mug of cocoa drink before embarking on one of his conquest. The ancient Mayans took sips for fertility, and the Aztecs were convinced that chocolate was an intoxicating aphrodisiac. King Montezuma, who kept a harem, consumed fifty cups of chocolate per day.

It was hard to pinpoint at that time why the brown potion worked. Recently studies prove chocolate have shown the presence of phenylethylamine, called the “love molecule”, causing a high and state of being in love. Some behavioral effects include greater confidence, unexplained joy, diminishing fatigue, and general sense of well-being. Sounds familiar?

Chocolate also contains serotonin, triggering feelings of pleasure; while testosterone levels of ladies have been shown to increase after eating chocolate. How’s that for a mojo!

A nice box of chocolate as a gift will never get old; it gives anyone a good reason to indulge in the glorious orbs of melting pieces of pleasure.

An age old joke says: a man found a bottle on the beach, opened it and out popped a genie, granting him three wishes. The man wished for a million dollars, and poof! Wads of dollars came falling from the skies. Then he wished for a convertible, and poof! A Porsche appeared. And then, he wished he could be irresistible to all women... poof! He turned into a box of chocolates. Need I say more?

Khao Yai

Bangkok weekenders and day-trippers, even tourist alike are finding places to retreat from the urban madness. City slickers pack their Gucci carry-on bags and head on a nature trip- no long tiring drives required, to breathe in and out and just lie down and chill. A good two hours away from Bangkok is Khao Yai, groomed to be the next address for out-of-towners.

The National Park first put Khao Yai on the map. Its 2,168 square kilometers boast of evergreen forests, grasslands, waterfalls and wildlife; with over 50km of hiking trails. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, it opens its corridors to visitors (Entrance fee: 400B for foreigners, 40B for Thais; Cars: B30up) seeking for a nature adventure: wildlife spotting; bird watching; and trekking through the rainforest. An 80-meter waterfall, Heo Narok, lies within the park. Adjacent are rolling golf courses, for those who want to be in the open-air but prefer to sweat it out in style.

Thanarat Road is the main passage way leading to the main attractions of the expanse. Restaurants and hotels are stringed along both sides of the two-lane street, spaced evenly. The trees and bushes conceal road signs, making it easy to overlook side streets and structures. Missing are the 7elevens on street corners; in its place, small convenience stores still housed in old wooden structures are evident of a place still unaffected by the commercialized world.

The Greenery Resort (188/1 Thanarat Road, Moo See, Pakchong; Tel: 044-297 224-5) is a good choice for families and nature-trippers looking for modest accommodations- no frills. Tucked in a narrow driveway, with the mountains as its backdrop, the complex of bungalows and apartments provide reasonably priced rooms (B1,300up). A sports area nearby includes: a bowling alley; rock climbing; zorbing (rolling downhill inside of a white, double-hulled sphere called a zorbus); horseback riding; nano racing; thunder hawking; and paintballing. Accommodations include 30% discount coupons to the “activity zone” and breakfast.

Juldis is another alternative for a weekend retreat. The structure drapes its land area with a main building and bungalows, making it more visible from the road (54 Moo 4 Thanarat Rd; tel: 044 297297; Rooms: B1,500up). The Country Steak & Pub, serving local beef, is the main restaurant lodged in a separate house in front of the hotel; with both al fresco and indoor dining and live music (opening time: Mon-Sat: 5pm-1am, Sun: 11am-2pm, 5pm-1am; 300-500B/person). Breakfast and all-day dining is served at the Chommanade Restaurant.

Across the street from Juldis is Fabb Café (219 Moo 4 Thanarat Rd; Tel: 044 297 533, opening time: 10am-10pm, everyday), a well-established restaurant in Bangkok; now a well-known spot in Khai Yai. K.Luv, Fabb owner, moved permanently to Khao Yai, as years of weekend trips drew her closer to the laid back life, “… to escape the stressful life of the city and have a peaceful life in the slow lane”. She dreams big for Khao Yai and plans to build a boutique hotel with a gourmet market, a pharmacy, a salon and a curio shop.

Fabb Café caters to gourmet visitors and residents of Khao Yai. The Café’s patio setting blends with the luscious green surroundings. Looking serene clad in a beige safari outfit, K.Luv says, “…most guests come up from Bangkok or neighboring provinces to have a good meal. I have guests come with their dogs after a stroll in forest to have some coffee and a slice of one our homemade cakes (baked in the restaurant’s big kitchen)”. Italian dishes are prepared by the trained Thai chef. The tasty risotto with mixed seafood (360B), cooked al dente, is loaded with shrimps, squid and clams. The filling portion of fettuccine with Italian sausage and mushroom with a hint of chili (260B) is a fine choice to pair with a Shiraz from the local winery.

For those seeking for the absolute tranquil getaway, the Kirimaya is the perfect destination. Downright luxury is the rightful description of this 60-room hotel, fit for the high-end crowd (1/3 Moo 6, Thanarat Rd., Moo-si Pakchong, Nakorn Ratchasima; Tel: +66 4442 6000, http://www.kirimaya.com/, Rooms- B8, 000up). Before reaching the gate to the National Park, a sharp left turn and another 7km drive leads to the serene haven. An 18-hole golf course lies at its doorstep. Amid the sprawling landscape are four tented villas in pure white canvass, with private spa pool- fit for a prince (B21,500up).

The Acala Restaurant rests on an islet on a small lake, serving Thai and international cuisine. Starters are a list of ingenious dishes: Pearls of Maya are aromatic shrimp balls (220B); Wa Ni Pok Salad is a house specialty of pork and shrimp (250B); and Mat Cha Long Dong is an exotic mix of green papaya and Norwegian Salmon (500B). A select list of main dishes include: Acala Tuna with teriyaki sauce (350B); Ostrich fillet with black peppercorn (590B); and Charred “Khao Yai” beef with red wine sauce (750B).

The Mist Bar sits on top of the Acala. At daytime, the weather’s fluctuating temperature varies and spews mist into the valley, creating an enchanting atmosphere; hence the name. A leisurely tea time is served to guests (inclusive to the accommodation) between 3-5pm; at night it is a great chill out place to have a couple of drinks. The T-Grill, overlooking the lake and the golf course, is a casual but romantic place to hang out for dinner.


A 12 km detour from the Khao Yai National Park is Asoke Valley, breaking through the barriers with its fine vineyards; coined as the “New Latitude of Wine”, it lies outside the 30° and 50° latitude north and south of the hemisphere. With years of research and fine-tuning, Thai Wineries are serving the local market with reasonably priced prime wine.

“Starting with a mere 5% of the Thai Wine market, I think we have a great future ahead, judging that we have been only 8 years in the business”, say K. Visooth Lohitnavy, CEO & Managing Director of GranMonte Co., Ltd and President of the Thai Wine Association. He intends to inspire ambition to wine grape growers. He is hopeful and believes “… there is a place for us in the growing wine world”.

GranMonte Vineyard (52 Moo 9 Phayayen, Pakchong, Nakornrachasima; Tel: 036 227 334-5; www.granmonte.com), a family estate, started as a vision of K.Visooth, a student in Germany in the 60’s. He developed a penchant for wines, while traveling through the Rhine Wine Valley. He smiles as he recalls, “I preferred to drink wine than beer, even if I stayed in Bavaria, an area well-known for beer”. Imported good quality wines are pricey and K. Visooth explored the possibility of producing the wines to make it affordable to the local consumers.

Entering the vineyard, a cellar shop “Montino”, provide free tasting of the wines on sale. Since its first harvest in 2001, the Chenin Blanc proves to be the best for the soil and climate condition; while the Syrah was the first of the GranMonte reds. Though wine drinking can stand on its own, gourmets appreciate it more when paired with the right food - a home cooking style restaurant is not far away.

Vincotto is a quaint café set in a cozy atmosphere (open daily 11am-9pm, except Wednesdays; Tel: 036 227 334). The French windows add charm to the setting; and a terrace gives it its casual elegance. The menu includes refined dishes such as: prawn and seedless grape salad (190B); foie gras with grape and verjus sauce (780B); and chicken in vine leaves (290B). Wines are priced at their retail price. A smaller café, by the entrance, is underway, for those who would like to have a sip of wine with some snacks; or even just a cup of coffee and a cheese cake topped with homegrown grape.

Nestled deeper into the valley is the PB Valley (102 Moo 5, Phaya Yen, Pak Chong Nakorn Ratchasima 30320; Tel: 036 226415), the pioneer wine producer in the Khao Yai region. Sixteen years ago, Dr. Piya Bhirombhakdi envisioned producing wine against the odds of working in a tropical climate. After years of consultations with wine experts and significant research, good quality wines were produced: Shiraz for the red and Chenin Blanc for white, both from French rootstock; and Tempranillo from Spain.

To complete the ambience of the misty valley is the Great Hornbill Restaurant. With 200 seats overlooking the winery, the extensive menu includes local and international food. Thai favorites include: spicy shrimp salad with lemon grass (150B); tom yung goong (225B); and krathong thong larb gai (110B). German influence in the menu is obvious with dishes of: mixed sausages (250B); and roast pork knuckles (385B); both served with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. Thin crust Italian pizzas baked in the newly installed wood-fired oven, are the new addition to the menu. Right beside the restaurant, wines are available at a store at the PB Valley driveway.

With Thai cuisine gaining great international acceptance, Thai wine can only be close behind. Foodies are finding the matching wines that suit the spicy and herby flavors of Thai foods. Khao Yai is in the forefront of Thai wine industry; raising eyebrows with connoisseurs, raising the bar on the “new world wine”.

The calmness of the rustic surroundings and stylishness of the fine wineries is contradicted as you exit back to Bangkok, through the main thoroughfare, Thanarat Road. It leads back to the Mitraphab Highway; just a few meters away from the curve is an ultra-modern outlet store. The Village Khao Yai, a17,000sqm of retail space, offers 250 premium name brands in 90 shops; somehow you feel you are just off Ventura Highway, northwest of Los Angeles. Just a douse of cold water to bring you back to the reality of city life you’re trying to escape from.

More roadside attractions are lined up along Mitraphab. Rows of picturesque shops are so inviting with its colorful array of fruits, sweets and delicacies. Small pies called curry puffs are aplenty- small snacks of deep fried pastry shells filled with fruits, meat or vegetables. Travelers stop by and look around, though many are lured to load up their shopping bags with variety of items at reasonable prices.

Another 2km further down the highway is the pinnacle of kitsch- cowboys and cowgirls clad in checkered shirts, red kerchiefs and boots, flaunting their wares. A live cow in a glass showroom is being milked; alongside shop after shop of dairy products (ice cream is tasty, packed in pairs of pints [260B], sealed will last 4 hours), souvenirs, curry puffs and sweets. Chokchai Farm (Tel. 04 432-8485, www.farmchokchai.com), aims to bring people back to nature with a man made forest and camping sites. For 2,990B/person, guests are treated to fun activities similar to a theme park, with overnight accommodations in a tent and meals in the wild. Now that’s entertainment!

There’s something for everyone: families seeking fun and adventure; city slickers searching for a time-out; tourist wanting to explore some breathtaking views; and nature lovers hunting for a slice of the shrinking wilderness. Then there are the Wineries, targeting visitors who want to acquaint themselves to the brand of wines in this part of the world; and although still at an infantile stage, it may be gearing itself up to reach the status of likes of Napa Valley.

A smooth two-hour drive, through the stretch of well-built highways, leads to this evergreen sanctuary– no busy airports required. An occasional escape from the wild city life is a welcome relief. The scratchy thrum of cicadas or the chirpy “gak” of hornbills may just be what a busy city dweller needs to replenish the soul. Pack the Nikes, leave the Manolo Blahniks and head on to nature, take a break!

For all it’s worth, Khao Yai truly is a place to visit.

TIP: Book rooms on-line to get the best rates: http://www.asiarooms.com/ or www.agoda.com
Best route to Khao Yai by car: Take Highway No. 1 (Phahon Yothin) from Bangkok, travel north to Saraburi and then take Highway No. 2 (Mitraparp Highway). Drive along the way (165km), then keep left and take flyover to Thanarat Road. Total distance is approx. 200km.