La Dolce Vita ala Rosanno

Foodies of Bangkok are insatiable. There will always be room for new restaurants and new ventures. When it comes to satisfying the palate, the city becomes an open stage for chefs from all over the globe.

It doesn’t mean that opening new restaurants have to be bordering on uncharted realms of exotic cuisines to tickle our taste buds. It can be the old tastes that give us the sense of home and traditions that transport us to rural settings of labored dishes par excellence.

Rosanno just does that; a well-received addition to the hordes of ristorante around town (167 Sukhumvit Road 21, Tel: 02 260 1861). The old and new crowd of foodies welcomes the rich traditions of Italian cuisines with its rustic ambience and familiar dishes. A quaint single-detached house with a terrace, conventional furniture and well-trained staff who greets guests with a smile and a “buongiorno” with a crisp accent is an invigorating scene in this hi-tech world.

Chatty and ever so hospitable, Rosanno tells tales of Bangkok 25 years ago when pizzas were as alien as cell phones were to Bangkokians then. His devotion to his kitchen endeared him to the hearts of the locals, and soon his pizzeria evolved into a lovely sought-after ristorante. Last year he retired but soon after he missed the bubbly life of a restaurateur and stepped right back into the limelight.

The kitchen is now under the watchful eye of Chef Achille from Sardinia, while Rosanno chats with guests and looks after the needs of his hungry patrons. Ensuring the authenticity of flavors, a refrigerated display counter is filled with meats and delicacies from Italy. Guests can request nice plate of warm and cold house appetizers from the fresh selection.

The volcanic stone grill highlights the kitchen, for a good old-fashioned smoky flavor. Fans of grilled food can feast on Australian Angus tenderloin dashed with peppercorn and mushroom sauce (680B); or an old favorite of juicy country style whole chicken grilled to perfection (420B).

Pastas are house dishes especially good on days we don’t want to complicate the mind with choices – fruitti di mare, al funghi, carbonara or homemade spinach lasagna filled with veal ragout (300B/dish). For me, I always have a contented longing for a steaming serving of risotto; like one laced with saffron and garnished with Italian sausages (360B). On my meatless days a simple vegetarian serving of risotto al funghi, filled with the earthy taste of mushrooms, could definitely gratify my craving (380B).

A sweet deal of a short list of lunch special of 8 antipasto, 13 main courses and 2 desserts (320B/ 2-course; 390/3-course) is available Mondays to Saturday; including an aroma-rich coffee at the end of the meal. Some dishes are special for lunch only, like my personal favorite of fried mozzarella garnished with greens and ravioli spinaci pomodoro. I only have to refrain from stuffing myself with the generous serving of thin rosemary sprinkled pizza bread – they are just delicioso!

A typical Sunday dish of a rich comforting stew steadily simmering for hours can leave anyone salivating in anticipation. Stinco di Vitello is a hearty chunk of braised veal oozing with the essence of rural flavors (520B). True to the undying tradition of seasonal flavors, a chalk board of specialties is constantly changing.

The wine selection can please anyone’s fancy. A glass of fine house wine, to wash down an easy meal, is poured just in the right amount (180B). While the large wine list can suit any occasion diners are in the mood for. Three enclosed rooms easily could seat a group of up to 12 persons, for private parties.

To enjoy a real Italian meal, you have to leave space for dolce. Italian gelato consists of six homemade flavors (120B/scoop): nutella, lemon, hazelnut, vanilla, coconut and chocolate. Millefoglie, alternating layers of thin pastry and mascarpone cream with strawberry sauce and ice cream, is a dreamy end to the meal (180B). Tiramisu, literally meaning pick-me-up, can definitely perk you up after a meal; with its fresh traditional taste of cake infused with coffee laced with rum, layered with oozing cheese filling, topped with rich powdered chocolate (180B). Are you now in a suspended drool?

So forget the minimalist theme, chill out music and über sleek setting, Rosanno’s is your good old Italian place. It is still Bocelli in the background, art and love in each serving of a dish and a short teleport to a charming little village in Italy where the atmosphere is like home. Love it!

Choco Loco

“All you really need is love, but a little chocolate now and then won’t hurt!” (Lucy Van Pelt in Peanuts by Charles M. Schulz)

A gift is not just a gift. Too little and too generic equals a thoughtless act. An extravagant and very expensive gift can not only seem an over the top inducement but a warranty for favors.

All year long, we are faced with a dilemma on what gifts to give- birthdays, thank-you-presents, get wells, hostess gifts, holidays and most of all Valentine’s Day. Do we give only our “significant someone” or everyone we love? After all, it is the day of hearts- L.O.V.E!

That’s where chocolates come in. Give me one person who despises chocolates and I’ll give you a hundred chocoholics. From time immemorial, chocolates have been lifting our spirits, stimulating our senses and exciting our passion. And now, recent studies have even suggested that cocoa or dark chocolate contain helpful ingredients good for our health; setting off the "Chocolate diet", that highlights 2 ounces of dark chocolate per day (100 calories). That’s a diet I would love to undertake!

If that is not tempting at all to rush to the store and get this precious pieces of heaven, why not experiment it on your significant someone. Hand your lover a box of fine chocolates, light a candle, put on some soft samba music, start the chocolate tasting and see where the mood takes you! It may be the best experiment you have ever endeavored.

“The best way to degust a piece of chocolate is to put it in your tongue, close your eyes and let it slowly melt in your mouth”. Chocolate expert Stephane Dabazach of Gallothai’s Duc de Praslin is passionate about chocolates. Chocolates, he further adds, “… is a sensual experience involving sight, touch, sound, smell and taste. The evenness of the deep dark brown color, the snap as you break it, the delicate aromas accompanied by the sycophantic melting in the mouth arouses the taste buds, as the sweetness and bitterness explodes into a silky consistency that brings the pleasure”.

Duc de Praslin may well be the best place for chocolates in town with some 30 varieties of pralines (16-18B/piece) in many shapes and sizes apt for all occasions and festivities; including chocolate coated fruits and nuts. Evidently the only manufacturer of fine chocolates in Thailand with 9 outlets in Bangkok, Phuket and Chiangmai, they have paved the way in opening the palates of local gourmands to the joys of chocolates.

The best place to hang out and taste the rich cocoa drink to wash down a praline or two is at Duc de Praslin Café House at Fenix Tower (Sukhumvit Soi 31, Tel: 02 2583200). The powder blue façade stands out, so it is hard to miss it. Inside are comfy seats to enjoy a set of: fine cocoa drink, a croissant, a glass of orange juice and a praline (95B); for a midday boost or a treat after work (open 7:30am- 9:00pm). The stock is plenty for a quick stop for some presents, like when you are late for a date or did something thoughtless (right?); or even nice truffles for you to cuddle with by the sofa to end the day- why not?

Chocolates, like wine, has some intricacies to ensure its utmost enjoyment: store chocolates in the refrigerator in the middle section, too cold will make the cocoa butter rise to the surface; eat chocolates at room temperature to ensure the maximum sensation of its taste; only indulge in the best chocolates you can get your hands on, for the real pleasure of it; and eat chocolates moderately, dark chocolates for health benefits and a creamy praline as a rewarding treat.

It makes me wonder what magic these balls of cacao really have. Casanova referred to chocolate as the "elixir of love” and is said to have enjoyed a mug of cocoa drink before embarking on one of his conquest. The ancient Mayans took sips for fertility, and the Aztecs were convinced that chocolate was an intoxicating aphrodisiac. King Montezuma, who kept a harem, consumed fifty cups of chocolate per day.

It was hard to pinpoint at that time why the brown potion worked. Recently studies prove chocolate have shown the presence of phenylethylamine, called the “love molecule”, causing a high and state of being in love. Some behavioral effects include greater confidence, unexplained joy, diminishing fatigue, and general sense of well-being. Sounds familiar?

Chocolate also contains serotonin, triggering feelings of pleasure; while testosterone levels of ladies have been shown to increase after eating chocolate. How’s that for a mojo!

A nice box of chocolate as a gift will never get old; it gives anyone a good reason to indulge in the glorious orbs of melting pieces of pleasure.

An age old joke says: a man found a bottle on the beach, opened it and out popped a genie, granting him three wishes. The man wished for a million dollars, and poof! Wads of dollars came falling from the skies. Then he wished for a convertible, and poof! A Porsche appeared. And then, he wished he could be irresistible to all women... poof! He turned into a box of chocolates. Need I say more?

New Year Food for Luck

Ushering the New Year entails some celebration. There’s always renewed hope for a better year and there is clamor for the traditional New Year’s “luck foods”, supposedly to bring more good fortune and happiness for the coming year. Along with cabbage, rice, ham and black-eyed peas, to foods that are gold in color to round in shapes, abundance of food on the celebratory table is a tall order of the day.

The first in the list is the practice of eating "ring-shaped" and “golden” foods during New Year's celebrations. Symbolizing the "coming full circle," the belief is that good luck will follow all who munch such foods. The loads of fruits and sweets, even balls of cheese may open your good fortune this midnight of December 31.

The Thais will go for 3 native delicacies made for the sweet tooth: foy thong; thong yip; and thong yot. Made from five simple ingredients - coconut cream, coconut meat, rice flour, palm sugar and eggs; the thong (meaning gold) symbolizes prosperity and wealth. Who doesn’t want that? So, go grab these precious looking sweets and slide through the New Year. They are mostly available in the talaad (market places), although my best bet is the Otoco market (50B up/per pack). The easiest way is the MRT to Kampheang Phet station.

For those who prefer a traditional New Year meal “Japanese Style", Tsu welcomes the year right with a symbolic feast (JW Marriot; Tel: 02 656 7700). It begins with “Otoso” - traditional Japanese sweet sake to rev up the appetite. Osechi Ryouri, the festive meal comes with five different kinds of sashimi, followed by three kinds of main dishes (Kobe beef amiyaki with Japanese mushroom, Hokkaido taraba crab tempura with creamy mayo sauce and five different kinds of sushi), and served with “Ozoni” (New Year’s special soup). Finale to the meal would be the refreshing fruit sorbet served in its skin cup. The meal symbolizing long life, good health and happiness, is available this New Year (lunch and dinner from January 1 - 3, 2008 only, 4,500 B/person).

Then there is tradition of eating cabbage for good luck which comes from the association of cabbage with prosperity. European cultures, especially in Germany, emphasize eating sauerkraut (sour cabbage) with pork on New Year's Day. Also eaten in many parts in the U.S., the word "cabbage" is used as slang for money. Here’s an easy recipe to make sure you jump start the New Year:

PORK ROAST WITH SAUERKRAUT

3 jars sauerkraut
3-4 lbs. pork roast (boneless)
4 strips of bacon
3-4 dried juniper berries (optional)
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium apple, chopped
250 ml apple juice or wine
250 ml water

Place bacon on bottom of large pot, cover with 1/2 of sauerkraut, add pork roast, then the other 1/2 of sauerkraut, then top with onion and apple. Add liquid.

Cook over low heat for 1 ½ hours, till the meat is tender.

People around the world wait for the clock to strike 12 and will be munching on food for good luck. Try any one of these, shared by many people throughout the world.

• At the strike of midnight, eat 12 grapes signifying each month of the upcoming year. If the grape for the respective month is sweet, expect a good month… if it's sour, a bad one.
• Munching on noodles denotes a long life; an old superstition says that it's bad luck to cut them.
• Feast on fish. Some not only will they gorge on it, but will also place several of the fish's scales in their wallets as a way to ensure financial wealth. In Chinese, "Yu" (fish) sounds like the words for wish and abundance. As a result, on New Year's Eve it is customary to serve a fish at the end of the evening meal, symbolizing a wish for abundance in the coming year. For added symbolism, the fish is served whole, with head and tail attached, symbolizing a good beginning and ending for the coming year
• Spring Rolls symbolize wealth because their shape is similar to gold bars.
• Tangerines and oranges are not only golden but round and aplenty this time of year. Used them as centerpiece on you table before eating them and bring in the vibe!
• Finally, steamed sticky rice cakes have a symbolic significance. Their sweetness represents a rich sweet life, while the layers stand for rising abundance for the coming year.

In many cultures, it's believed that you can affect your luck by the type of food you first eat on New Year's Day, those that will drive away bad luck and bring in good fortune. Yet it is the hovering spirit of togetherness, which matters most, stirring the feasts where the symbolic foods inspire a sweet beginning for an auspicious year. Happy New Year!

Dine by the River

At what length would you go to get good food with a picturesque view? Tucked away, a provincial setting, and welcoming smiles are just the reasons to search far and wide – sure, and why not?

For the Thais, the river is the source of life, it is where everything begins. Properties by the river command the highest price, and restaurants by the river have its enduring allure. Owners Pete and Frederick knew this and converted the old family house into one of the ideal places to take refuge and enjoy good food. Opening its doors to guests, the rural setting is just a perfect setting to unwind.

Baan Rabiang Nam (Nonthaburi 1 road, soi 23, Sanambin Nam; Tel: 02 9681481) is a stone’s throwaway from the busy mall infested thoroughfare of Chaengwathana Road. A turn to the Sanambin Road pulls you out of the city into a time warp, like you are miles away from civilization. As you enter the small street and park your car, a pedicab ushers you into a smaller alley where you have feeling you are visiting long lost relatives deep in the “tamboon”. Wooden planks lead to houses attached to one another into the riverfront sala in wooden stilts, in a rural setting view of the river with water hyacinths floating. The location is at Chaopraya’s largest point, half way between Nonthaburi pier and Koh Kret Island.

There is a stream of guests starting at lunch time (10% discount till 2 pm). Aside from the local residents, the nearby ISB international school, surrounded by Moobaan about 5km away, provide the regular clientele. City slickers from Bangkok also come by car through the expressway or by boat to the Nonthaburi Pier and a short taxi ride to the restaurant.

The best time to come would be at sunset, where you can have one of the herbal drinks of roselle, lemon grass or purple flower (20B) while being mesmerized by the sighing sunset. Fai Deang, a dish of fried morning glory (80B) and Dok kai, a salad of thai flower (90B) is a nice touch to start of the meal. Shortly before 6 pm, an interesting sight was a local vendor in a boat full of dried squid and popcorn. A fishnet with a pole delivered a bag of popcorn to a customer, from one of the groups of office workers unwinding after the 9-5 shift, to munch with a glass of beer.

The menu is very much a pick from northern to southern dishes, with some from the royal cuisine. The most impressive dish was the fried fish in five flavors: salty from nam pla; spicy from prik thai-on; sweet from palm sugar; tannin from the nuts and herbs; and sour from tamarind juice (200B). The combination was a burst of flavors to delight the taste buds. Other favorites are: steamed mullet with veggies,“nam jim jeow”; mullet fish “nam tok” style with mint, chili and herbs (200B/dish). Soups are also main attractions: lemon grass soup w/ chicken & tamarind leaves; spicy beef soup with herbs & mushrooms; spicy mixed seafood soup “tom seb”; and boiled beef in red Chinese sauce (90-120B/serving).

The ten cooks in the kitchen work with everyday fresh produce from the Nonthaburi market. A list of 21 recommended dishes are renewed on a monthly basis, using what is best in the season. Lovers of Isarn food are pampered with typical servings of “larb” and “namtom” in different varieties and of course “somtam” with fruits, catfish and raw prawns to the traditional green papaya. Thai favorites grace the menu, like fried salty chicken, prawn cakes with plum sauce, fish cakes with sweet peanut sauce, and chicken with lemon grass. Prices are surprisingly very reasonable (50-100B/serving).

The drink list extends from mixed cocktail, fruit shakes, to whiskeys and wine. Frederick, a true blue French, takes care of the wine selection. From Bordeaux, Australian Shiraz to Chilean Merlot to complement the food, the rustic ambience offers a fair five-star meal. For those who prefer to bring their own, corkage is a mere 75B for wine and is free for whiskey.

The experience was invigorating. There is a hovering feeling of being in a remote village as I watch the tide ebb in the river, which was a historic landing strip in the Second World War. The breeze was light at this time of the year and in the approaching cooler months the protective roof from the rainy season will be dismounted, so evenings will allow stargazing at the night skies. Baan Rabiang Nam is one of the thriving quaint places where life in the fast lane slows down for a marvelous evening enjoying great food. Chon ka!

(How to get there by car: Exit the expressway on Ngam Wong Wan road, then straight on Ratanatibet road until Phra Nang Klao bridge. Don't cross the river but make a U-turn under the bridge, then turn left on Nonthaburi 1 road, into soi 23 - next to the Ministry of Commerce.)

Get High on Tea!

The tea drinker vs. the coffee drinker is like a clash of the Titans or a duel between classical and jazz music. Tea drinkers are somehow like the refined-yoga-health-conscious-freaks, whereas the coffee drinkers are the hyper-workaholics-multi-tasking hip group.

With the proliferation of cafes and hangout places around town, these chill-out groupies are offered a lot of choices. Which group out numbers who is not the point but the places to go matters the most. Apparently there is a large group of tea drinkers judging from the afternoon hi-tea hype all over Bangkok. It seems nibbling little cucumber sandwiches and sipping jasmine green tea is one the highly rewarding afternoon activity of the hi-so and trendy crowd.

Recently, worlds collided at the Four Seasons with the conglomeration of 5-star chefs from all over the globe, boosting Bangkok's reputation even more. Two pastry chefs from all over the globe had week-long activities from baking demonstration to fancy afternoon tea menu presentation. Five-star pastry chef, Katrina Kanetani from Sydney, Australia, made offerings of different grades of fine chocolates paired with spices and fruit reductions harmonizing into the desserts. Katrina says, “… a drop of this and a drop of that enhances the tea flavors”. While Nicole Kransinski from San Francisco, California, used local spices to lace up desserts resulting in unexpected flavors.

Afternoon in Bangkok has stepped up a notch higher as 5-star hotels and cafes try to outdo each other. Heading the race is The Four Seasons (155 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok, Tel: 02 2501000) with its traditionally luxurious afternoon tea delight. Maintaining its exquisite choices of savories and sweets, weekend are best spent enjoying tea time at The Lobby, amidst the ornate ceiling and the imposing columns that set the mood to an atmosphere of sheer class (850B/person for weekend tea buffet; 650B/set on weekdays). A wide selection of fine black tea, green tea, fruit tisane and herbal infusion match with foie gras parfait Napoleon or warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream, provide an ideal weekend treat.

The search moves on to one of the first in high tea cultures. The Oriental Hotel (48 Oriental Avenue, Tel:02 659 9000) celebrates its old traditions within the Author’s Lounge, where famous writers once sipped tea. Its setting is a blast from the past designed with white-washed rattan armchairs and white parasols. Munch on scones, pastries and cakes carefully placed on 3 tiered tray for a lazy afternoon amid the tall bamboos and palm trees (880B/tea sets), or order ala carte from the menu.

Feeling a bit fancier? Splurge on an extravagant tea time at lebua lounge (1055/111 Silom Road, Tel: 02 6249999). A refillable set of sandwiches, cakes and savories (1,500B) is served with tea fit for a queen. Overindulge by starting with a bubbly glass of champagne, before gorging on the light snacks that include mini steak sandwiches and itsy-bitsy sweets that can be the highlight of any day (tea set with Champagne, 4,500B).

A view of the river with couples swarming in for an afternoon of ballroom dancing with a live band translates into a lively and quite entertaining weekend at the Shangrila Hotel lobby (89 Soi Wat Suanplu, New Road; Tel: 02 236 7777). The food offered is more like a mini lunch buffet with noodles and Thai treats aside from the usual sandwiches and sweets, which is a tip-off from the traditional high tea (650B/person). What makes it more attractive is the show it offers, it’s up to you if you’d like to be the spectator or the performer.
Smack right in the middle of the busy Sukhumvit area, the Sheraton Grande (250 Sukhumvit Road; Tel: 02 649 8888) offers a refuge from the madding frenzy. The Living Room up to the Library at the mezzanine offers a venue for a quiet weekday afternoon hangout for hi tea fans (470B). On weekends, it transforms into a livelier ambience with its afternoon tea time buffet with jazz music (600B). Guests gather at around 3pm to savor the hefty assortment of tapas, sandwiches and sweets to jazz-up their weekend.
History undeniably attests to the popularity of tea. Although the British are particularly known for their love of tea and drink more tea per capita than any other country in the world, this part of the world is “indeed” catching up. Even the word hi-tea itself connotes elegance in the old world sense; and it has its in vogue appeal, too. I guess sitting on a low table sipping tea daintily holding the cup with one pinkie finger pointing up while savoring finger foods in one of these fine places is really refreshing. Everyone ought to be able to say the least- “been there, done that”.

The Occasional Vegetarian

Where’s the main dish? First time vegetarians are baffled by the food serving seeing only seemingly side dishes on the plate. I confess it truly takes a good vegetarian meal to impress me. Meat is filling and veggies are mere garnishing.

I admit to being an occasional vegetarian, and why not? It is a lifestyle choice. Be it for body cleansing or a mere alternative in another cuisine, vegetables are truly a healthy choice. Growing up, it seemed to me like a big sacrifice to have meatless days, but with the increasing amounts of research, it is undeniable that going green has a lot of health benefits. So where do I find a good place to get satisfying vegetarian food?

“Vegetarian cuisine like any other cuisine (Italian, French or Thai) is an alternative choice even for gourmets. You don’t have to be Greek to enjoy Greek food, likewise a vegetarian to enjoy vegetarian food.” Sylvie Bruzeau, a vegetarian since 8 years, together with partner Luka Wong created Tamarind Café; enticing the growing healthy population and presenting them with creative and delicious meatless cuisine.

Tamarind Café (Sukhumvit soi 20, Tel: 02 663 7421, open weekdays 3pm-11pm, weekends 10am-11pm) is a quaint, well-lighted, split-level bistro that offers innovative cuisine inspired by the Sylvie’s and Luka’s travels. Growing up in the picturesque Loire Valley, Sylvie picked up fresh home-grown vegetables in their garden. She emulates home cooked meals in creating her dishes.

Freshness is the basic criterion in the kitchen. Ingredients are the best picks of the season, from the different suppliers around Thailand to early morning produce from the Klong Toie market. The kitchen is home to homemade jams, breads, pastas and in-house sauces.

A meal can start with a Tamarind Kiss Cocktail (vodka, fresh tamarind with a dash of orange juice, B190) from the ample-sized bar; or one of the café’s original mixes: rouge cooler (watermelon, lime & mint, B120); velvet underground (beetroot, mango, orange &mint, B150), or carrot spice (carrot, apple, lime & ginger, B150).

Quiche, one of the house favorites (B95/slice), tops the list of 18 appetizers. The Sweet Tropical (B160) is a serving of sliced mangoes and julienne beetroot on a bed of lettuce presented in a wide glass; in a slight whisk of the chive garnish, it is swished into a plate- really neat! Ratatofu is a ratatouille inspired dish; a cube of tofu, topped with zucchini, eggplant, onion and tomato, simmered in a ginger and dill sauce (B130).

All of the best cuisines of the world are represented in the main dish list. Spearheaded by Geng Kyo Wan, a spicy Thai veggie green curry served with glass noodles or rice (B230) and Pad Thai, rice fettuccine with tofu, chive, egg, bean sprout and sweet tamarind sauce (B160). Japanese inspired dish of a selection of 4 types of sushi rolls are “east meets west” creations: mango and homemade pesto; cheese, dill and basil; crispy baby corn, mushroom and Thai basil; and miso-grilled veggies; rolled and presented appetizingly on a wooden board (B350). French cuisine is well represented in a baked dish of cauliflower-asparagus-mushroom-potato-herbs-chili-gratin, smothered in rich béchamel sauce. Italian, of course, is ever present; the baked mushroom lasagna (B350) is a best seller.

A vegetarian feast is always complemented with nice sumptuous desserts. Pies, cakes, puddings and homemade ice creams are worth the calories spared. The chocolate fondue with tropical fruits (B150) is a perfect treat for two.

Open on weekends from 10am-11pm, Tamarind’s all day breakfast is a fancy fair of feel good meals- just what weekends are all about. From colorful omelettes, muffin Benedictines, French toasts, crispy waffles, refreshing trifles to piping hot pancakes, the café is a great place to hang out. With wireless internet access and the latest photo art exhibits, it is just a nice and easy spot to while away the weekend.

Between the pure and simple tofu and the unpretentious taste of fresh crisp garden salads, I must admit I’m considering more regular meals of vegetarian flavors. I’m not ready to give up the pleasures of a grilled lobster or a good piece of Vienner Schnitzel, but Tamarind succeeds in convincing me, a confessed occasional vegetarian, that vegetarian cuisine need not be bland or uninteresting. As Sylvie says, “… we all have to find our own balance in our lifestyles and discover what suits us and live well”.

O-Bento!

Anyone care for lunch in a pretty three-tiered lacquered box? How about thinly sliced vegetable rolled like flowers or leaves, or shaped and carved with designs? Or tiny portions of foods in different variations presented like artworks, with a piece of origami on the side?

O-Bentō boxes are fun! They are single meal portions traditionally consisting of rice, fish or meat, pickled or cooked veggies in pretty lacquer ware, or wooden boxes for takeaway. In former days, it was a housewife’s skill to prepare bento boxes for the husband and children as a packed lunch, until they evolved and played a major part of in Japanese cuisine.

Often elaborate and whimsical, these treasure-like meals dates back a thousand years ago. Later, they were special treats for hanami- a special outdoor party done beneath the sakura, during the cherry blossoms season from late March to early May. In modern Japan, they are popular lunch boxes or tea party treats.

Tsu, one of the most innovative Japanese restaurants in town, offers these lunch boxes. Just a flight of steps off from Sukhumvit Road, down to the basement, it is an easy access for those grabbing a fast lunch. Chef Aki, a superb host, walks around checking on guests; exchanges a word or two and maybe get some feed back from the bubbly lunch time patrons.

“A bento is traditionally made in a 4:3:2:1 ratio: 4 parts of rice, 3 parts of the side dish (either meat or fish), 2 parts of vegetables, and 1 part of a pickled vegetables and dessert. Here at Tsu, I make 5 or 6 of my day’s selection, depending on what is freshest in season. Prepared cold dishes are done in such a way that they will taste nice, cold.” Chef Aki is very dedicated to his craft.

The main dish carries the title of the bento box, with complementing side dishes, okazu - which can include meat, fish, eggs, tofu, fruit and vegetables- all presented in bite-size form for handy chopstick action. Considering color and pairing of food, the presentation is appetizing and aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

A selection of six Bentō boxes, all served with chawanmushi (steamed egg custard), miso soup and fresh fruit, include: Grilled Chicken in a Box (300B); Hirekatsu in the Box – deep-fried pork cutlet; Unagi (fresh water eel) in the Box (400B); Tsu in the Box -daily fresh sushi, assorted tempura & grilled fish (380B); Sushi in Box (480B); and Sushi and Sashimi in the Box (580B). An advance order by phone will have your bento boxes ready for you as soon as you arrive.

Noodles- the filling, energy staple food of the Japanese diet- are not overlooked in the menu. Soba is a type of thin Japanese noodle made from buckwheat flour; in contrast to udon which are thick noodles made from wheat. It is served either chilled with a dipping sauce, or in hot broth as a noodle soup. Tsu’s Tanuki Soba (cold, 190B) is served with seafood, vegetable and tempura flakes. Niku Miso Udon (190B), a Japanese version of a pasta Bolognese, uses thick wheat flour noodles topped with minced pork miso sauce. Three other hot noodle dishes (225B/serving) complete the noodle list: Tempura Udon, soup with crispy shrimp and vegetable tempura; Ebi Sansai Udon, soup with wild plants topped with a grilled shrimp skewer; and Niku Soba, soup with sliced Australian beef and veggies.

A special treat at Tsu are varieties of imported low fat sorbets made from Japanese lemons, oranges, apples, peaches and pineapples. They are beautifully carved out, made into sorbets and served in their fruit casings (350B/serving). Although a bit pricey, they are just heavenly.

Japanese cuisine, as such as modern Japanese culture, is ever evolving; yet art always work hand in hand in every detail. Served in fine Japanese restaurants, bento boxes in cute lacquered wood boxes are strongly based on its compact niftiness- it inspired the IBM ThinkPad design. Although cute and pretty, bento boxes are made for everyone. I even picture a table of bento lunch for the whole gang with Tony Soprano!

Tsu
JW Marriott
4 Sukhumvit Road Soi 2, Bangkok
Tel: (66) 2-6567700